Three, two, one, and you’re off – screaming down the side of a ski slope and straight toward the sea during the U.S. National Toboggan Championships. Surrounding you are competitors in costume, from Chiquita bananas to penguins and polar bears. It’s a bit chilly here at the Camden Snow Bowl, but no matter.
Welcome to Maine, in the months before the masses arrive. From February through April, Penobscot Bay sparkles with a winter wonderland that melts into a spring of new beginnings: lobster boats receiving a fresh coat of paint and museums curating contemporary exhibits. While the National Toboggan Championships occupy only one weekend, every day offers a different way to play on a unique bay.
Activities & Attractions
Discover the Motion of the Ocean
From December through April, harp and hooded seals appear along the 2,600-mile coast of Maine, with pupping season happening in February. So now is an ideal chance to spot the slick creatures right around the corner from the Samoset at the historic Rockland Breakwater Lighthouse. For a prime viewing spot, hike nearly a mile out to the bay to the end of the pier, built with more than 700,000 tons of granite. This time of year, only a few ferryboats go to and from nearby Vinalhaven and North Haven Islands, making it a quiet time to contemplate the Atlantic action.
See the Sea from Skis
Coastal Maine gets about 50 to 70 inches of the white stuff each year, and has plenty of places to take advantage of it. First, the Camden Snow Bowl is the only ski resort on the East Coast with views of the Atlantic Ocean. Ski or ride 20 runs serviced by a 4,000-foot triple lift, with snowmaking on more than 80 percent of the terrain. Plus, a ski lesson just might teach more than the sport, as several instructors double as schooner captains in the summer. The Samoset, meanwhile, offers snowshoeing and cross-country skiing on its golf course; rentals are at Maine Sport Outfitters in Rockport.
Embark on a Food Journey
This is an especially fine time of year to visit Rockland restaurant, In Good Company: Every Thursday, from February to May, the loft-like space features a special Food Journeys dinner series. For 2019, owner and chef Melody Wolfertz is exploring global cuisine while paying homage to her favorite genre: the detective novel. The last dinner in January took inspiration from The No.1 Ladies’ Detective Agency, a novel set in Botswana, with sorghum bread, chicken vindaloo devtani, cabbage with groundnuts, steamed pumpkin slices, and an amarula malva cake for dessert.
Drink a Brownie
Winter means the release of Brownie, a coveted “chocolate milk” stout made with Ghana cacao nibs by Penobscot Bay Brewery in Winterport. Come springtime, however, these suds disappear until next year, so stock up at local craft beer store, Rockland Food Service.
Savor Scallop Season
The Maine Department of Marine Resources allows divers and draggers to forage for scallops only from December to April, and this year, with some areas shut down early to protect the harvest, Penobscot remains one of the bays whose bounty is fair game. Not ready to dive into 35-degree waters? Splurge on a stew of coastal shellfish – featuring day-boat scallops, in addition to mussels, clams, Maine Lobster, shrimp, and haddock – at Samoset’s Italian-inspired restaurant, La Bella Vita.
Festivals & Events
For eight days every February, Camden cooks up this downtown feast of frigid fun, which includes a community-wide ice-carving contest at the amphitheater, a fund-raising polar plunge into the harbor, the U.S. National Toboggan Championships and CamJam Freestyle Ski & Snowboard Competition at the Snow Bowl, and more. Samoset’s master chef, Tim Pierce, is also a master ice sculptor, and leads clinics in the art of turning a 300-pound block of ice into anything from an egg to a swan.
Bay Chamber Concerts, 2/12, 2/13, 2/22, 2/26, 3/8, 3/13 & 3/29
The Maine hills are alive year-round with the sound of music as this family-friendly Rockport-based nonprofit presents a diverse display of talents, including a performance of Shuo by composer Chen Yi (Feb 26) followed by commentary by the composer and the jazz harmony stylings of Sarah Elizabeth Charles and pianist Jarrett Cherner.
Winter Education Events, 2/16, 3/16, 4/20
Only in winter can you attend this special series – hosted by the Owl’s Head Transportation Museum – that celebrate some of the icons of transportation through its Reels & Wheels screenings and expert lectures. Topics cover everything from Howard Hughs to Nascar to Chitty Chitty Bang Bang.
Maine Restaurant Week, 3/1–12
Camden’s Hartstone Hideaway Restaurant and Sea Dog Brewing Company are two of the dozens of restaurants participating in this palatable celebration of culinary talents, which features specially priced three-course meals.
26th Annual Business and Community Expo, 4/10
The Samoset Resort hosts this free showcase of local businesses, where residents can network with other participants, while visitors receive a glimpse of what it’s like to live in the Penobscot Bay area.
Where to Stay Samoset Resort